We’ve come full circle.....

Now in matters of boating and what’s worth seeing we tend to defer to the good taste of “Mr Pearson”. (JM Pearson & Sons Ltd, Canal Companions series, 9 booklets covering the inland waterways network). We enjoy the dry wit of Michael Pearson’s commentary accompanying the linear maps of the cruising routes. On our way up the Staffs & Worcs from Stourport we decide to take a diversion up the Stourbridge Canal (more new water) to Stourbridge itself to test his assertion - following an admission of ”..a tendency to wax lyrical,” - that “the pound between Stourton and Wordesly is simply ravishing.” So at Stourton Junction we duly take a right, as our transatlantic cousins say, and head up pretty little flight of four locks that raise us 36 feet up the Stourton flight. Some delightful gardens border and extend onto the side of the top lock with its memorial seat. Clear water, a good margin of ribbon weed and sight of ample shoals of small roach perhaps indicate that not many boats pass this way. And the verdict? Yes, Mr Pearson, “the spirit of romance, soft shoe shuffling,” does remain alive, the pound is enchanting, despite the occasional heavy passing shower.

At Wordsley junction we take another right and cruise down the Stourbridge arm to its terminus at the bonded warehouse at the Town Wharf and a secure mooring. Stourbridge is a town that has been a centre of glassworks, the old centre of which is separated from the historic wharf by that scourge of many a town; a dual carriage way urban bypass. Fortunately this one has a convenient pedestrian underpass which is put to good use in travelling to a splendid Indian Restaurant to celebrate the fact that himself has notched up another year.

Having seen the best of the Stourbridge we retrace our steps to the Staffs & Worcs rather than taking the passage up the locks to the long Netherton tunnel and into the centre of Birmingham again. On the outskirts of Wombourne we moor below Bratch Locks. We take a short walk to have a look at the flamboyant turreted pumping station which houses Victoria and Alexandra, a pair of magnificent steam engines which have been lovingly restored but not open for viewing on this occasion. Instead we make our way up the street to the station building (the track bed now in use as a cycle and walkway) to the station cafe and the compulsory tea and cake. Bratch locks, as we may have mentioned before, are a treasure. Originally a three-chambered staircase lock they were early on converted to three separate locks with side pounds. The distance between one chamber and the next however is only about three feet so there can be no passing between locks. The lovely octagonal toll office is a base for a lock-keeper who oversees passages up and down. From the top lock there are lovely views over the surrounding country. Herself has declared it “One of the most delightful spots on the waterways”.

So we continue on upwards. It is some years since we last cruised the upper half of the Staffs & Worcs. The weather has been indifferent, windy with showers. August is turning into a regular miserable month. We pause for the weekend at Penkridge where, as we moor, helself observes a small hairy dog swimming with great gusto from beneath the bridge we have just come though. “The dog’s in the canal!!!!!” When you’ve only got little legs you can’t haul yourself out so are forced to paddle back and forth looking pathetic. That’s what becomes of being too eager to get ashore. A firm hand round the collar and out he comes, shake and shiver, daft mutt.

At Great Heyward Junction we turn eastward onto the Trent and Mersey and familiar water to moor below Haywood lock and a day visit to Shugborough Hall beside the canal. Now in the care of the National Trust, Shugborough is the former home of the Earls of Litchfield and in the house is a small exhibition of Patrick Litchfield’s photographs from the 1980’s. More is open to view since we were here last, including the County Museum. And of course with a NT property lunch and a cream tea in the middle of the afternoon is essential; merely as a matter of quality control you understand. We have to convince ourselves that NT tearooms are always worth a visit.
At Colwich lock we encounter what we have so far managed to avoid in this peak holiday season – serious queuing! With ten boats ahead of us it takes us two hours to get through. At Fradley junction, a one time base for our shared ownership boat Scimitar we turn onto the familiar Coventry Canal. Hopwas and the Tame Otter (that’s the River Tame that goes through Tamworth) is a must stop place for himself; good beer and good food.

At Fazeley junction herself is delighted to find that the sawmill sells off-cuts and she is able to obtain a supply of nice logs – insurance against the approaching cold weather. So up to the top of the Atherstone flight for a lock free trip to Coventry and some sunshine at last. At Hawkesbury junction we continue on down the Coventry to the Canal Basin in Coventry itself. When we arrive the revitalised basin is empty and we have it to ourselves.

The Heir Apparent may disparage modern architecture but in the magnificent spiritual space which is Coventry Cathedral one could not agree with any generalisation on the subject. At Sunday Eucharist here we had the full panoply of cathedral liturgy as the service included the installation of the new Cannon Precentor, formerly Vicar of Newbury whom we have encountered before on our passages through Newbury on the Kennet and Avon. Here we rest and spend several days exploring the delights of Coventry, searching out the remaining parts of the medieval city, and visiting the excellent Herbert Museum. Today we should have left, but with winds gusting at 30mph and more we decided to stay put. Move.....??? Tomorrow will do. What’s the rush?